Anchovies are misunderstood, forever cast in a supporting role (in steakhouse Caesar salads). That’s why it’s always a delight to make wild caught, fresh anchovies the centerpiece of a meal. Sourced from Portugal, these bite-sized, briny fish promise robust flavors that hold up with bold spice (think: harissa) and bitter greens (think: dandelion). Or, rewrite history with a classic Caesar topped with charred anchovies, fresh from the grill. That’s an upgrade.